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BRASS Tokyo

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apap View Drop Down
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anonymous

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote apap Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar 2017 at 5:34am
Originally posted by Double 0 Soul Double 0 Soul wrote:

Originally posted by apap apap wrote:

Received these a couple days ago from Pancho and Lefty.  Clinch hand-dyed black horse butt engineer boots on the CN last.

IMG_8956 by ap ap, on Flickr



^These are beauties! i bet your over the moon. Ive got tiny scars in all of my HH from FW,s to Buco or of course it could just be a tooling mark that will rub out.
Im glad the sizing worked out, would you go with a 10 in the CN again?
 
They're fantastic.  I'm only on my second day of wearing them, and they are really comfortable.  As of now, I would say yes I'd go with the Clinch size 10 (9 US) again.  
 
There is a small defect shown in the photo visible in direct sunlight.  Indoors this morning I had trouble finding it.    It's a non issue currently, and will be eclipsed by wear shortly.  It's nothing. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Americana Mark Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar 2017 at 10:54am
Originally posted by ShootThePier ShootThePier wrote:

While those flaws are completely superficial, they are too much to allow my eyes to see how good or bad the stitching might be.
In fact, if I saw that, I'd be left looking for all the other flaws. Even with a replacement, I'd be paranoid. I'm sure some customers would be willing to ignore small problems at inconsequential areas, but I'm willing to spend this kind of money so I don't have to worry about stuff like that.
Yup, I know I am splitting hairs here. These are real good boots still. I just don't feel like my pair is worth the price I paid for them ($1000). It's a bit rough around the edges and doesn't have that craftsman ship polish I've seen of other pairs in here. 

Originally posted by Double 0 Soul Double 0 Soul wrote:

This is really rough workmanship!
You say you paid $1000 bucks? did you buy them direct from Brass? because if you see my pair of overdyed Clinch in the op there is no sign whatsoever of overspill onto the edges of the leather. In my case the dye must have been applied prior to construction (before the pattern was cut) because if the dye would have been applied after it would have also dyed the stitching.

Whereas this pair^ somebody has clearly applied the dye after construction and not particularly well.

Yup, I emailed BRASS asking what boots he had in stock and this was one of them. I couldn't see any of these flaws in the pictures that were sent to me and it was not mentioned if they were used. They looked brand new in the pictures. 


Should I email them? I don't want to be rude since I am from a different culture than where these boots are made and I don't know what is socially acceptable business wise when it comes to stuff like this. I'd just like to get to the bottom of why this pair is rough around the edges and the ones I've seen in here aren't. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Americana Mark Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar 2017 at 11:01am
Also just to clarify on the leather. The leather is baby calf. I believe that explains their weight so I am withdrawing my criticism of them being light. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ShootThePier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar 2017 at 11:12am
Mark,
I think it is very courteous of you to ask about cultural differences before you email. Tell them in the email that you want to respect their business, but at the same time the product you received is not the product that was in the pictures you initially received.
Hopefully they're horrified Product like that ever left their shop.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dudewuttheheck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar 2017 at 11:13am
I would. Be respectful obviously, but I maintain that that is not up to the standards of their boots that I have seen or owned myself. If either of my custom pairs end up like that I will not be happy.

Well at least the leather is explained haha.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote smoothsailor Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar 2017 at 11:53am
I'm curious to see a picture of the whole boots. 


Beautiful pair Apap.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Double 0 Soul Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Mar 2017 at 12:37pm
Originally posted by Americana Mark Americana Mark wrote:

Also just to clarify on the leather. The leather is baby calf. I believe that explains their weight so I am withdrawing my criticism of them being light. 


I assumed they were horse because the leather doesn't look particularly thick but if they are 'soft' baby calf that would explain the premature collapse in the shaft.

Personally Mark i wouldn't get into the 'why's and why nots' it'll just complicate the matter 'your not happy with them, they are not what you were expecting based on the photographs provided' either return the boots and ask to be put on the waiting list for a pair that look like apap's or ask for a refund, pay to send them back with full tracking and insurance.

If you ask in the small Q,s thread im sure a Japanese speaker will be able to offer better advise regarding terminology and etiquette than i could provide.

You sound like a polite and reasonable fellow and so are they so there should be a happy outcome here. Good luck! keep us tuned

as smoothsailor says, can we see some more images, sole included please?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (4) Thanks(4)   Quote dudewuttheheck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jul 2017 at 6:25pm
Please excuse me for this overly-long post!

A couple of weeks ago I had the pleasure of going to Brass Tokyo to pick up my 2 custom pairs of engineer boots. This was my favorite storefront we visited in terms of style and looks from the entire trip. As you can see from the pictures, the inside is adorned with shoes and boots, globes, and some very unique and clever lighting fixtures which really add a stylish feel to the store. I introduced myself to the guy who seemed to be running the shop (there were three Brass employees in there at the time) and he went to get my boots from upstairs, which is where the actual workshop is.

As far as I can tell, both pairs came out perfectly. The black ones are made of their Japanese veg-tanned leather and there is some wax residue left over in some places, but I don’t consider that a problem. I think they look pretty smart with the red contrast stitching and medium brown edges.

The stunners were the horsehide boots. These are easily my favorite boots that I own to this point. The leather blew me away. From what I gathered, it’s horsebutt from an Italian tannery that is sent to and finished in the Shinki tannery. It really does have a very Shinki-esque look and feel to it, whatever the amount of work that Shinki actually put into it. Either way, this is probably the best leather for boots that I have seen or handled in my life so far. I love my Role Clubs, but this leather is leagues ahead of what he uses in my eyes. The HH on those is flat and characterless in comparison. Other details include natural finished edges, 9in rather than 11in height, and some very light tan contrast stitching which I absolutely am over the moon with. Another difference is that, due to the shorter height, there are no pull straps inside of these boots.

Another point I should make is that both of these boots are Clinch size 11. My other pair of Clinch boots are the same size in the same last and fit me quite a bit more snug. I’m not sure if this is due to the Latigo leather used or the fact that these were made quite a while ago, but the difference is clear. Either way, I’m happy because the new ones fit better anyway.

I managed to learn some more information about Brass that I thought would interest several people on here, though this may not be news to you. First off, they now have 9 people who actually work on making the shoes and boots. However, the handwelting is done by only one man as of right now. I have his Instagram if anyone is interested. Also, while the inner welting is done completely by hand, the sole stitching is done with an old goodyear machine. I am not sure if this is correct, but I believe that Brian actually hand sews even the sole stitch. I did confirm with Goto-San that he does that by hand. Finally, I did get to meet the founder/owner of Brass (he is pictured next to me below) and he instantly recognized my boots and informed me that he worked on them.  I have his Instagram as well, but some of you may already follow him. All of this info was from the man who ran the shop so I believe it to be accurate.

As it turns out, Brass and Role Club are more different than I initially thought, but at this point, I would pick my Clinch boots overall. The construction is dress shoe quality (they must train their staff well), the leather choices are amazing, and the CN last is my favorite engineer boot last around. The new HH really puts them over the top.

They were also quite happy with the Bourbon and gave my brother and I Brass branded shoe horns (which I find funny to give to a guy picking up engineer boots) After this experience, I am even more of a Brass fan than I was before. I am so happy that my boots came out exactly as I wanted and that the quality actually surpasses that of my first boots. These (especially the HH ones) are my favorite boots I own right now and in my opinion, the best engineer boots that a person can buy. That said, I could understand people making the same argument for Role Club. I’ll be making a video comparing both boots soon. I prefer Clinch at this point, but my Role Clubs are not going anywhere and neither are my Lofgrens which I still love to death as well. Sorry for the long post so here are too many pictures as well! :P 

Keep in mind that the black boots were worn for several hours before these pictures were taken. I was too excited and just walked out with them!


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Aries View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Aries Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jul 2017 at 6:45pm
Jesus Christ incredible.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dudewuttheheck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jul 2017 at 12:05am
Thanks! I wish I had gotten pics of the black boots before I wore them, but I just had to wear them out of the store.LOL
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