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MILITARIA PLUS (Workware,Cabourn,Kapital,etc)

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mr randal View Drop Down
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    Posted: 28 May 2020 at 5:52pm







Edited by mr randal - 29 May 2020 at 8:13am
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mr randal View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (3) Thanks(3)   Quote mr randal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2020 at 6:05pm
 I don't know that this style has an official name, here or abroad, but my sense of it really jelled when I saw images of Patrick Wong, owner of Workware Hong Kong, on IG. Wong's series of fits in oversized and slightly stylized military garments in his signature crisp, rounded silhouette really caught my interest. At the time I was feeling pretty bunt out on what the denim scene had come to (costly never-ending pursuit of the latest and greatest small batch 507 & '30s-'50s 5-pocket jeans). This, I thought, feels like something new and exciting.
 The components aren't exactly new- a lot of older military repros are cut sufficiently wide to fit this mold, and some brands like Kapital & Needles have been making oversized or funkily detailed military style garments for years, but this type of military reproduction intersected so nicely with the modern trend of oversized jackets and wide, cropped pants.

 I think the primary supplier of this style is Workware HK, but also Club Stubborn, Bronson Manufacturing Co, Kapital, Engineered Garments and a few others also tap this vein.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dudewuttheheck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2020 at 10:38pm
The pants might be too wide for me even, but I do love a lot of those jackets.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CSL Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 May 2020 at 10:45pm
Mark, Do you follow Dexter Store Firenze (dexter_store_firenze) on IG? He's doing stuff fairly close to the styles you posted here. 

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Iron Horse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 May 2020 at 12:07am
I suppose it’s an offshoot from what Nigel Cabourn has been doing? Either way getting quite popular.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mr Black Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 May 2020 at 12:27am
I’m particularly taken with this jacket by club stubborn

https://www.stylecreep.com/products/club-stubborn-cigar-jacket-alpha-green
www.sidewinderapparel.co.uk
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mr. Q Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 May 2020 at 12:57am
Originally posted by Mr Black Mr Black wrote:

I’m particularly taken with this jacket by club stubborn

https://www.stylecreep.com/products/club-stubborn-cigar-jacket-alpha-green

StarStarStar I really like that design! Not sure about that lightweight nylon tho. I think Eastlogue also belongs here. 


^ I tried this on at Bloomingdale's (a special selection from their Korean buyer) and loved it, but it was also in a crinkly nylon and couldn't stand the whoosing sound it made everytime I moved. Confused
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mr randal View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (2) Thanks(2)   Quote mr randal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 May 2020 at 1:52am
Iron Horse- you are very right, Nigel Cabourn is in many ways the poster child for this style. A lot of the offerings from Club Stubborn seem to be “homages” to cabourn items, though when both are tweaked versions of military pieces I guess the influence comes down to pointing to where to borrow?
He was certainly the first designer I know of to go so boldly into making casually worn, loosely cut military apparel into streetwear.

CSL & Mr Q- thanks, I’ll take a look at those.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (2) Thanks(2)   Quote Blood&Thunder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 May 2020 at 6:36am
Eastlogue does some fantastic stuff.  The parka below is by them and I have been very happy with it.


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mr randal View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (5) Thanks(5)   Quote mr randal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 May 2020 at 8:16am
B & T, in the spirit of this thread I have to point out that your pants are far too narrow. I don’t think you could get both feet through one pant leg, which is apparently mandatory for the look.
😉
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