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Conners Sewing Factory

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Topic: Conners Sewing Factory
Posted By: Double 0 Soul
Subject: Conners Sewing Factory
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2016 at 5:21am
The Conners Sewing Factory have had access to Yawara Miura's 3000 strong Levi's collection and using restored machinery of the era have recreated the rare 1946 model which still featured key elements from WWII restrictions, a transition (if you will) between the 44,s and the yet to come 47,s.

...Its been a long wait.

The S406XXX MIURA-46

Unlike other 'One Piece of Rock' garments the Miura-46 are entirely hand made by one person from start to finish so only 20 pieces can be made each month.

Cow hide patch

Much like WWII Levi's they do have a "not quite perfect' hand made feel about them which i really like.


Single piece sleeve detail


Each hand made piece is signed and dated.

...and comes with a laminated letter of authenticity

On the reverse it shows the http://www.fortyniners.cc/#!swing-machine/cau7" rel="nofollow - vintage sewing machines used by Conners in the making of these garments.

Its the box that just keeps on giving....
S409XXX MIURA-46

13.5oz gray weft cloth woven in Okayama using Mr. Miura's 1946 benchmark denim.
Just look at that blue!

Angled tab

Rusting button backs. The fly is unfinished/open WWII-esque



The hidden rivets are iron



From the thread to the denim to to the stitching a lot of effort has gone into this reproduction.
Both garments are available for pre-order for collection in store so a big Thank You! has to go out to 49s for making this happen.
I could go on but its all summed up beautifully here in this condensed version of the film.
There is also a 2hr film which shows the 46-Miura's being made in real time.




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I'll endorse anything for cash



Replies:
Posted By: Flash
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2016 at 5:27am
soooo cool  mate , ive been lusting over a pair of these for well over a year . hope to see lots more pics once you have washed them


Posted By: Duke Mantee
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2016 at 6:24am
I've followed this on Instagram - such a great process.

And ever since you mentioned the '46 a while back I've been anticipating this. My interest is piqued further now because of the background to which the FW Lot 601XX are designed - so I'd love to hear more about these items.



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Quis custodiet ipsos custodes?
https://instagram.com/duke_mantee/" rel="nofollow - Duke-a-gram


Posted By: Broark
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2016 at 7:50am
Very nice, I've had my eye on the S409XX Miura-46's for a long time now.
Denim looks great too, looking forward to see how they evolve!


Posted By: Majormajor
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2016 at 8:44am
A very beautiful thing!

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www.classicsoulcentral.com


Posted By: ThisSunday
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2016 at 9:11am
Thanks for sharing. The jacket and jeans look amazing. Beautiful packaging


Posted By: Happy Hooligan
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2016 at 9:49am
those are fantastic.  The video was great too.   Being a machine nut, can you post a bigger pic of the card with the machines he uses?




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http://www.MachineCollector.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.MachineCollector.com
http://www.DAEdenim.com" rel="nofollow - http://www.DAEdenim.com


Posted By: Dr_Heech
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2016 at 10:00am
Nice tux Double 0, never heard of them before - cheers for sharing!


Posted By: Double 0 Soul
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2016 at 11:06am
Thanks Gents, I had a feeling you would like them.

HH- ^^There is a highlighted link above the sewing machine image showing detailed information.


Posted By: SLAB2
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2016 at 12:28pm
denim looks great; looking forward to the washing and wearing process. Let us see some fit pictures!


Posted By: A_See
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2016 at 1:26pm
Congrats Double 0. I had never heard of him before either, so thanks for putting him on my radar. That video was cool to watch. Really amazing looking product from start to finish.


Posted By: The Librarian
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2016 at 1:27pm
That single piece arm detail is nice.


Posted By: mr randal
Date Posted: 12 Mar 2016 at 3:01pm
Nicely done, 02, that's a very welcome development.


Posted By: smoothsailor
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2016 at 2:23am
Never heard of this, pretty cool approach of things. And a good looking combo, its going to suit you nice Double O

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dislectic


Posted By: oomslokop
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2016 at 4:45am
who do i have to fuck contact to get these pieces of rock-solid repros dubyo?

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rakuten is entertainment


Posted By: b_F
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2016 at 8:53am
Great pick up!
Didn't know one can pre-order them. I thought you just have to wait and be lucky to get a pair when they release again.


Posted By: Double 0 Soul
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2016 at 11:51am
Ooms- It must've been that old 'David Niven' charm that done it, that and a sprinkling of very good fortune but mainly the charm.

b_F- The pre-order form was in Japanese that you had to print, fill out, fax back and wait for confirmation. Reading early blog posts folks traveled across JP to collect the S409XXX over the counter and i get the feeling that 49,s are not that interested in tapping the international market, that being said they made it happen for me and for that i am grateful.


Posted By: Jeef
Date Posted: 13 Mar 2016 at 12:14pm
Cool stuff, Can't wait to see what these look like with a little wear and some washes.

Originally posted by Duke Mantee Duke Mantee wrote:

I've followed this on Instagram - such a great process.

And ever since you mentioned the '46 a while back I've been anticipating this. My interest is piqued further now because of the background to which the FW Lot 601XX are designed - so I'd love to hear more about these items.




And Duke I'd love to hear what you know of the 601xx background, please post it over in the FW thread!


Posted By: massivebonanza
Date Posted: 17 Mar 2016 at 3:44am
Very nice, Mr Soul. 

But, a 33? Put on a bit of timber? 

Joshing .. from what I can interpret, the FortyNiners regular line One Piece of Rock 409xxx appear to fit small on the waist

I like what they've done with the patch on the Miura special.

From: 


To:



Posted By: Double 0 Soul
Date Posted: 17 Mar 2016 at 3:54am
Indeed "massivebonanza" Wink they do come up rather small, with no size chart to go with i was sent photographs of washed waistbands being measured and the 33 shrinks down to 16" across. I have only hot soaked and the fit is nr perfect if a little snug in the top block or should i say less roomy than what i would usually wear, Think it will only be 30C washes from now on in. It was either that or hot wash a 34.


Posted By: Maynard Fried-San
Date Posted: 17 Mar 2016 at 3:56am
Is massivebonanza really hoggy in disguise?

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Helixing my inner beanie


Posted By: massivebonanza
Date Posted: 17 Mar 2016 at 3:58am
Who is this hoggy you are referring to. I know no such beast.


Posted By: Double 0 Soul
Date Posted: 17 Mar 2016 at 4:01am
I twisted his arm maynard, he put up very little resistance.


Posted By: massivebonanza
Date Posted: 17 Mar 2016 at 4:13am
I'm sure I don't what either of you are talking about Pig

In any event.

'Someone else' once said it before, although the common thinking is more to machine washing to get the shrink out, that 'they'd' changed their own view on this and were more inclined, now, to cool/lukewarm soak and hang dry instead of the hot agitation of the machine. 

If I did it again with raw loomstate denim that's what I'd do. Reason being I (sorry - they) had come to the conclusion that excess hot machine washing tightened up the fibres too much, and had a bit of a detrimental effect on the properties or qualities of the fabric. Took it too far if you will.

Cool soak, natural stretching, preferable outcome Thumbs Up




Posted By: Flash
Date Posted: 17 Mar 2016 at 5:43am
Good to see you back mate



Posted By: massivebonanza
Date Posted: 17 Mar 2016 at 6:31am
Bloody hell. Thanks Flash LOL


Posted By: Double 0 Soul
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2016 at 10:47am






Posted By: massivebonanza
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2016 at 11:10am
Farrk yes, nailed it.
Think I gazed a moment too long on that rear pic.

".. what you looking at hun?" 
".. nothing dear!" 
Closes laptop abruptly.


Posted By: SLAB2
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2016 at 11:18am
fit looks like custom sized; especially like the jacket


Posted By: Flash
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2016 at 11:29am
Perfect fit on both mate


Posted By: ongaku
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2016 at 11:43am
+1! especially the fit of the jacket: perfect!


Posted By: Duke Mantee
Date Posted: 19 Mar 2016 at 11:42pm
The jacket does look great but for me the jeans are the business ... and I'd like to hear how they stack up against Mr Soul's standard issue '47s (any or all)

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Quis custodiet ipsos custodes?
https://instagram.com/duke_mantee/" rel="nofollow - Duke-a-gram


Posted By: Dr_Heech
Date Posted: 20 Mar 2016 at 2:32am
Originally posted by Double 0 Soul Double 0 Soul wrote:



          


          






Great fit Double 0! (Ya bastaad you!)

I would love to join in but no, definately watching closely from the sidelines




Posted By: robroy
Date Posted: 20 Mar 2016 at 7:21am
Love the fit of the jeans. The jacket looks great too, but I can't keep thinking how those jeans look perfect. Well done OO


Posted By: aho
Date Posted: 20 Mar 2016 at 10:11am
Haven't been on db in a while but damn, congrats on the pickup, can't believe you got them!


Posted By: smoothsailor
Date Posted: 21 Mar 2016 at 12:36am
great fit Double O

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dislectic


Posted By: Double 0 Soul
Date Posted: 21 Mar 2016 at 12:08pm
Thank you for all of your kind words gentlemen.

Duke- The attention to detail is peerless here its less like reproduction and more like finding new old stock but im still in that honeymoon period let me live with them for a few months wash them a few times and get over this severe giddiness then i might be able to give you a more consideration opinion.

Im the meantime, courtesy of Lightening.



Posted By: Duke Mantee
Date Posted: 21 Mar 2016 at 12:42pm
Thanks Double 0 - I think your plan will give a more balance analysis.
 
Interesting image too ... the main comparison shot tells a story in itself.


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Quis custodiet ipsos custodes?
https://instagram.com/duke_mantee/" rel="nofollow - Duke-a-gram


Posted By: Majormajor
Date Posted: 22 Mar 2016 at 7:44am
Here's a bigger, clearer version of those comparison pics:
 
 
 


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www.classicsoulcentral.com


Posted By: Majormajor
Date Posted: 22 Mar 2016 at 8:45am
Here's a thing.
 
Back in my Art School days, I learned a trick in the Pictorial Composition class  - if you want to get proportions right, don't just look at shapes, but also look at the shapes of the spaces inbetween the shapes...
 
That has always stuck with me, so I guess that has helped me to be a bit of a picky bastard when I look at jackets.
 
Here's a close up comparison of the front of the original 46 jacket and the CSF copy:
 
 
 
The button spacing is spot on, but the stitching on the pleats is not. The bottom one, in particular, is way too high, and the relationship between it and the bottom of the pocket looks very different.
 
However, all is not lost. I reckon they just chose an early sample to use in that pic, because if you look at the jacket that 00 is holding, the spacing of the stitching is slightly bigger between each one, and the distance between the pocket is correct.
 
 
I guess they went to Art School too!LOL


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www.classicsoulcentral.com


Posted By: Maynard Fried-San
Date Posted: 22 Mar 2016 at 8:53am
It's a good observation MM but wouldn't you find similar differences/variance even among a sample of originals.

Wabi-sabi?

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Helixing my inner beanie


Posted By: Majormajor
Date Posted: 22 Mar 2016 at 8:59am
Yeah, could well be. But looking at 00's jacket, it looks like a very faithful copy of that '46, which is to be commended.
I notice on the original that the stich units on each face of the jacket are slightly at different heights between the left and right sides (very much like Wrangler jackets, but not so noticeably out of sync).
 
I wonder if they have included that? That would be Wabi-sabi......Clap


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www.classicsoulcentral.com


Posted By: Double 0 Soul
Date Posted: 22 Mar 2016 at 9:01am
Indeed, that jacket was a sample (size 36 if im not mistaken) photographed for the Miura-46 launch at the latter end of last year. Its not just button spacing you will notice the distance from collar points to horizontal chest seam is way off but as major points out if you see my 'production run' jacket in the OP those distances are perfect.


Posted By: Majormajor
Date Posted: 22 Mar 2016 at 9:05am
Originally posted by Double 0 Soul Double 0 Soul wrote:

Indeed, that jacket was a sample (size 36 if im not mistaken) photographed for the Miura-46 launch at the latter end of last year. Its not just button spacing you will notice the distance from collar points to horizontal chest seam is way off but as major points out if you see my 'production run' jacket in the OP those distances are perfect.
 
Yeah, I noticed the collar points, but put it down to the fold around the top button - but hey, these guys are perfectionists, so I'm sure they got it right.
 
If only I didn't have FAR too many denim jackets, I would be up for one of those!Confused
 
Congrats on a great buy.


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www.classicsoulcentral.com


Posted By: Double 0 Soul
Date Posted: 22 Mar 2016 at 9:34am
Thanks, They even replaced the deer skin patch from the samples (even though they had already made them all) with cow hide for the production run because deer skin just wasn't aging to a satisfactory enough degree to embody the characteristics of the patch from the 46 jacket.

In the words of Roy Castle 'Dedication that's what you need'


Posted By: Maynard Fried-San
Date Posted: 22 Mar 2016 at 9:50am
"If you wanna be the best, if you wanna beat the rest..."

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Helixing my inner beanie


Posted By: Snake
Date Posted: 08 Apr 2016 at 8:04pm
Got a hold of this http://www.fortyniners.cc/#!s409xxx-m-ww2/c1p8i" rel="nofollow - WWII Model . Took a chance on the sizing. The top block is a bit tight. Sizing is shrink from tag size, much like the traditional Levi's sizing.

Denim is quite irregular with vertical streaks.  Will post some fit pic soon.


https://flic.kr/p/FVVhLS" rel="nofollow">




Posted By: Double 0 Soul
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2016 at 12:07am
Can't wait! me and flash were having a drool over that back pocket stitch yesterday, just lovely.

Can you shed any more light on the Aoyama Festival 43,s 44,s and 45,s were they (as i suspect) the WW2 sample pairs?




Posted By: Flash
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2016 at 3:38am
really looking forward to see these , with a but of luck i may be able to contribute to this thread soon 


Posted By: Denimetc
Date Posted: 09 Apr 2016 at 8:05am
Ha, this pocket-stitch-button placement on Levis Type Ii's have been a favorite rant of mine. It seems to be very random. Se my post on last page of the LVC analysis thread for more comparison pics (currently on page 5 of Brands - sorry wasnt able to insert link on ipad)

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Too much Denim - too little time...


Posted By: Snake
Date Posted: 10 Apr 2016 at 2:50pm
Size 34

https://flic.kr/p/FeJd74" rel="nofollow">

https://flic.kr/p/G7Guj5" rel="nofollow">

https://flic.kr/p/FexuBS" rel="nofollow">




Posted By: Ishmael
Date Posted: 10 Apr 2016 at 3:29pm
Damn. That's a great fit. How does the fit compare with models from other makers (FW, Warehouse etc..)?


Posted By: Snake
Date Posted: 10 Apr 2016 at 6:36pm
Thanks Ishmael. The fit is definitely dlimmer than other brands. The top block is tighter. From waist to hip, it tights a bit. This is different than most other repro brands.


Posted By: Flash
Date Posted: 10 Apr 2016 at 9:18pm
seconded , excellent fit snake 

did you happen to take any detail pics ? 


Posted By: Flash
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2016 at 10:54am

got these Cushman's  ( made by conners ) today and i love them :) , they feel completely different to any other pair i own but i just cant put my finger on what exactly it is , i suppose it is probably all the little flaws that give a hand made feel to them  . 


http://s660.photobucket.com/user/RYANDARRAGH/media/20160418_180318_zpsburbuo4s.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">


The jeans have lots of little flaws that come from the hand folded seams but it only lends to what conners are aiming to achieve in making period correct repros  


http://s660.photobucket.com/user/RYANDARRAGH/media/20160418_180525_zpstzegvo79.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">


The buttons feel really solid and should age quite nicely with the rest of the jeans 


http://s660.photobucket.com/user/RYANDARRAGH/media/20160418_180617_zps4cnk011m.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">


No bartacks on the back pockets 


http://s660.photobucket.com/user/RYANDARRAGH/media/20160418_180943_zps69stkm9c.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">


some nice roping on the hem 


http://s660.photobucket.com/user/RYANDARRAGH/media/20160418_181034_zpsvk5yowsr.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">


and the fit , they fit a little tight but will stretch pretty easy ( already starting to give a little while i type this ) . In an ideal world a 29 would have been perfect but they only come in even sizes and a 30 would have been a bit big 

( excuse the shirt , just in from work )


http://s660.photobucket.com/user/RYANDARRAGH/media/20160418_182045_zpsqyqqf1t1.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">



http://s660.photobucket.com/user/RYANDARRAGH/media/20160418_182108_zpsqd8tu3mn.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">


all in all in really happy with them 



Posted By: Double 0 Soul
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2016 at 11:59am
Looks good, fit doesn't look tight at all, this time next week they'll be covered in baby puke Wink

Were they hemmed prior to you buying them?


Posted By: Flash
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2016 at 12:02pm
thanks mate 

this is actually there standard  inseam , didnt measure them but im guessing about 31 inch ( not an option for the taller folks ) 


Posted By: Double 0 Soul
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2016 at 12:08pm
Sweet saved yourself £20, that coin pocket is all sorts of handfed wonkiness compared to the clean lines of the back pockets.


Posted By: Flash
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2016 at 12:16pm
one of my favorite  details is how the back pockets are sewn at the corners ( seen in pic 4 ) 

im pretty sure it is the same 13.5OZ denim as your pair , what do you think  ?


Posted By: Duke Mantee
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2016 at 12:18pm
Forgive me but (and I seem to recall something similar in the RMC thread) these are authentic rather than badly made?
 
Yes, I am being a little bit cheeky but where is the line drawn?


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Quis custodiet ipsos custodes?
https://instagram.com/duke_mantee/" rel="nofollow - Duke-a-gram


Posted By: Double 0 Soul
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2016 at 12:23pm
Looks very similar, would you say the best representation of colour would be pic #2 followed by #4 ?


Posted By: Flash
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2016 at 12:27pm
Originally posted by Duke Mantee Duke Mantee wrote:

Forgive me but (and I seem to recall something similar in the RMC thread) these are authentic rather than badly made?
 
Yes, I am being a little bit cheeky but where is the line drawn?

thats the idea mate , to be an authentic repro of a early 40's s501xx  , may not be to everyones taste but i think it is a really cool concept  


Posted By: Flash
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2016 at 12:30pm
Originally posted by Double 0 Soul Double 0 Soul wrote:

Looks very similar, would you say the best representation of colour would be pic #2 followed by #4 ?

closer to 2 but maybe a shade darker  


Posted By: Double 0 Soul
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2016 at 12:30pm
^^Agreed, I think its just a matter of perspective Duke, Comparing my S406XXX to my Warehouse TypeI the WH feels almost too stitch perfect even bordering on sterile its a perfect representation of what can be achieved rather than what was.


Posted By: Duke Mantee
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2016 at 1:16pm
I genuinely understand what you're saying guys, and I do believe in what CSF are trying to achieve but still there remains some misgivings that it takes great skill to copy what effectively were cheaply made originals.

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Quis custodiet ipsos custodes?
https://instagram.com/duke_mantee/" rel="nofollow - Duke-a-gram


Posted By: hollows
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2016 at 1:21pm
I think that it takes a different set of skills.  It surely takes sewing and design skills to turn out a pair of jeans that look as laser-clean as FW or Warehouse, but it takes a great deal of perception (in analyzing originals) and mechanical aptitude (in working with old, cantankerous vintage machines) to re-create those original quirks.




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I make things out of http://www.hollowsleather.com" rel="nofollow - leather .


Posted By: Flash
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2016 at 1:28pm
agreed , id say most semi skilled seamstresses could do a similar job if they took the time to study the vintage examples , but i think it is the passion for vintage and the meticulous attention payed to all the little details on the originals that made the Conners product stand out  


Posted By: Double 0 Soul
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2016 at 1:28pm
Yup, there are no actual claims of "great skill" in this thread, Its the technique, the quirks from hand folding, the period correct sewing machines that i find most charming.
What also appeals is they are the closest thing this side of £4000 to those wonky 40,s Levi's that you see hanging on the wall of Marvins.


Posted By: Duke Mantee
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2016 at 1:42pm
Totally agree Hollows - the skills are most definitely apparent. I'm not suggesting the ability or dedication is lacking but there is that small element in my mind that I can't reconcile.
 
I guess my question is this - these original quirks CSF have introduced, are they the same in every pair of jeans they produce or different every time?


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Quis custodiet ipsos custodes?
https://instagram.com/duke_mantee/" rel="nofollow - Duke-a-gram


Posted By: Double 0 Soul
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2016 at 1:51pm
Its claimed that due to every fold being done by eye/hand without the use of an iron then every fold is inherently different which should introduce nuances found individually in each pair. Hence why they are only made by the one chap who has bathed in the holy essence of the Miura collection.


Posted By: Duke Mantee
Date Posted: 18 Apr 2016 at 3:27pm
Thanks for the passion lads Thumbs Up

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Quis custodiet ipsos custodes?
https://instagram.com/duke_mantee/" rel="nofollow - Duke-a-gram


Posted By: Double 0 Soul
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2016 at 1:17am
I will try and put my perspective into words Duke, He is trying to recreate the 40,s ethos/feeling within the denim that he is stitching together? Now you can either take the RMC approach which was to study the WW2 denim in their archive and introduce all these era specific details into one pair of jeans but of course intentionally reproducing a wonky stitch is simply just contrived especially when replicated time after time in every pair of jeans, its no different to a machine following a template/set course, its not what this is about.
Some of the WW2 era Levi's are as good as it gets construction wise yet some  are all over the joint, so trying to maintain that feeling cannot be done using the RMC method, it Only occurs naturally when a specific set of circumstances are in place which will probably never happen again.

This is where i think the difference lies in the CSF approach where he uses the machines of the period and try to recreate the "feeling" of the era and let the wonkiness occur naturally, a happy accident if you will. Its not like he doesn't have fantastic sewing skills but the trick is not using said skills for the application at hand (trying not to sound like a pretentious twat) you see this in the cubist movement it wasn't as if these artists could only paint like a 6 year old child they were accomplished well schooled artists but for what they was trying to convey they chose not to use said skills instead chose to unlearn the principles they had acquired. Anyone who is skilled at making anything knows how difficult it is not to be influenced by the constraints of ones own thought process and what you assume to be the correct outcome, It seems to be inbuilt within the human psyche.

I also see this same approach used in Japanese tool making where hand tools are made to feel right in the hand rather that look right.
The western equivalent would probably be an ergonomics App.

Edit-Typo's


Posted By: Duke Mantee
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2016 at 4:06am
I think you (and Flash and Hollows) have described things very well indeed.

In truth my questions were to generate this discussion as much as anything else - I wanted folk reading this thread to hear why you have invested into CSF.

For me it is clear the spirit of the jeans, and the era, that are being captured - and rather well at that. But from a more naïve perspective it should be fairly obvious everyone here that what looks like a badly made coin pocket could actually be a badly made coin pocket.

I'm not in anyway suggesting CSF are selling shoddy goods, I'm pointing out that without prior knowledge people will judge what they see.

It's good you've addressed the RMC approach. For me they did nothing but pay lip service - it was a gimmick - CSF are doing something quite different.

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Quis custodiet ipsos custodes?
https://instagram.com/duke_mantee/" rel="nofollow - Duke-a-gram


Posted By: Double 0 Soul
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2016 at 4:45am
Aye, I know what your saying Duke, I don't think there is a right or wrong here either its just a matter of opinion, from a certain perspective they do look badly made it all depends what you are striving to create.

Sorry about the crappy "art" reference above, im not suggesting these jeans are in anyway a work of art but that was the only comparison I can ever recall where folks who were accomplished in their trade actually made a conscious effort to make things look worse to be "better" from a certain pov of course.

Just between you and i though, "im not sure who sewed those Cushies together he was clearly blind or drunk or blind-drunk Wink


Posted By: Maynard Fried-San
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2016 at 4:47am
He did make some that were stitched properly but they were sold off cheaply as factory seconds.

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Helixing my inner beanie


Posted By: oomslokop
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2016 at 4:51am
iirc in said rmc discussion i indicated my desire to see someone subject him/herself to all the pressures and restrictions that a levi's seamstress had to work under during ww2 and see what wonky wonders they come up with. csf is going in the right direction but i've seen the video and the factory looks too chilled! the boy wonder should be subjected to time restrictions (say 501 pairs a day) and 47 lashes of the heaviest denim if he doesn't meet the production target. then and only then perhaps we will get something approaching marvin's collection of wabi-sabi beauties. 

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rakuten is entertainment


Posted By: Maynard Fried-San
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2016 at 5:01am
They should only exist in black and white too, should make a better case for thread colour inconsistencies.

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Helixing my inner beanie


Posted By: Flash
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2016 at 5:41am
Originally posted by Double 0 Soul Double 0 Soul wrote:



Just between you and i though, "im not sure who sewed those Cushies together he was clearly blind or drunk or blind-drunk Wink



Well maybe a few of the lady's on the shop floor had a drink problem ?? .... maybe that is something else they are trying to recreate ;)


Posted By: Bennelli
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2016 at 6:16am
I do think they look really great and something to save my pennies for, I've followed Conners (via 49ers) since they started up, they work really hard and I'm glad things are picking up for them now.



Originally posted by Maynard Fried-San Maynard Fried-San wrote:

They should only exist in black and white too, should make a better case for thread colour inconsistencies.


I nearly spat my drink across the coffee shop reading this!

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https://instagram.com/gizmobennelli/
http://gizmobennelli.tumblr.com


Posted By: Dr_Heech
Date Posted: 19 Apr 2016 at 7:01am
^^^^Great reading lads, keep it up!


Posted By: Double 0 Soul
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2016 at 1:37am
Some further Friday musings..

To try and capture the essense of the age CSF go beyond a neatly reproduced pair of jeans simply just cut to specific proportions, they have tried to capture the inconsistancies apparent in the era.

I remember (i think it was) devilish trying to make a comparison between what he considered soulless almost too perfectly reproduced JP leathers compared to some American made leathers which he considering contained more of the human influence.
He didn't get far before being shot down in flames. I mean pfft! the gall of the man Wink but its these little imperfections we grow to love.

Wait a minute double 0 (i hear your say) only a few weeks ago you was spouting off about some badly stitched engineer boots in another thread? yes i was but they were a badly made reproduction of a well made pair of boots whereas these jeans are a well observed reproduction of a badly made pair of jeans.
I appreciate its a bit of a paradox. Which i suppose brings us back around to the line drawn between badly made and authentic reproduction.

Here are some of the inconsistancies Conners are trying to accidentally re-create (on purpose)
First up that wonky 40,s coin pocket




Look at the proportions here


Less than parallel, damn i love this pair of jeans!


And finally my favourite ever 40,s era detail

All above images are courtesy of http://www.marvins-jp.com/" rel="nofollow - Marvins ...Nothing you hav'nt seen before Doc_

Why do you want wonky jeans rather than neatly stitched? Well they reflect the era and i suppose its similar to the reason folks seek out the first edition print with the spelling mistakes or the coins minted without a date, Its the human factor that gives these things their perceived value far beyond their worth.

Anybody got anymore examples of wonkiness that we might not have seen? post them up here...



Posted By: Flash
Date Posted: 22 Apr 2016 at 2:33am
Got a few here mostly taken from Instagram

Showed the wife these a while back ... just to let her know what I want for my birthday
http://s660.photobucket.com/user/RYANDARRAGH/media/Screenshot_20160422-102512_zpsmxfbwwlr.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

http://s660.photobucket.com/user/RYANDARRAGH/media/Screenshot_20160422-102353_zpskuwjnmvh.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

http://s660.photobucket.com/user/RYANDARRAGH/media/Screenshot_20160422-102246_zpsj55yqf2t.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">




Posted By: Flash
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2016 at 11:18am
any updates OO ? Snake ? 

been wearing the Cushman jeans ( conners made ) for about a week and they really are a cool pair of jeans , the fit took a bit to get used to ( really high rise )  but they are super comfortable now and i cant see myself wearing anything else for quite a while Smile

http://s660.photobucket.com/user/RYANDARRAGH/media/IMG_20160430_133223_zpsj12fwnn4.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">


Posted By: Snake
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2016 at 12:33pm
Glad you like the fit Flash. Beware, It's hard to go back to lower rise jean once you are used to high rise 😀

Not much to update but have been wearing them at least couple times a week. The fit is actually quite similar to Roy KS1001 with a straight leg. It's definitely not what I was expecting. Denim is highly irregular as I mentioned earlier. I will try to take some pic soon.


Posted By: Flash
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2016 at 12:57pm
know what you mean mate , put my evisu 2000 no.1's on so i could run to the shop and the whole time i was trying to pull them up thinking they were sagging 



Posted By: Double 0 Soul
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2016 at 1:25pm
Been wearing mine daily ever since, well... im pulling them on in the morning and switching them to a pair of SC47,s when i get to work, flipping back to the 46,s for evenings and weekends. They have seen a fair bit of hiking and dyed the inside of my wellies an attractive shade of indigo.


Posted By: Flash
Date Posted: 30 Apr 2016 at 1:39pm
good to know your putting them through there paces mate , would you say the denim is fast fading ? 


Posted By: Double 0 Soul
Date Posted: 01 May 2016 at 1:12am
Hardly any crocking to speak of, the denim isn't particularly dark and i didn't agitate during the initial soak so they held onto most of their indigo.
The transfer is probably down to some wellie humidity.


Posted By: Flash
Date Posted: 01 May 2016 at 1:30am
Thanks mate , after seeing the pair I sent you I have high hopes for the denim

http://s660.photobucket.com/user/RYANDARRAGH/media/Screenshot_20160427-211338_zpswwmasff2.png.html" rel="nofollow">


Posted By: topgearskin
Date Posted: 03 May 2016 at 1:23pm
As an aside.
The term Conners was originally used to describe those responsible for testing and then demanding taxes from brewers. So the story goes, the "ale conners" would pour a small amount of the beer in question on the top of the cask then sit in it and drink a pint. The extent to which their leather breeches stuck to the top of the cask determined how much tax was paid.
This is linked to the fact that in the early stages of secondary fermentation there are still high levels of sugar in the ale, which was an indication of how strong the beer would be at time of consumption.

Conners would mark each cask with an X depending on the stickiness/ strength of the ale, hence why the strongest ales are referred to as XXXX



Posted By: Duke Mantee
Date Posted: 09 May 2016 at 11:07am
So what other brands famously made shit jeans during WWII?


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Quis custodiet ipsos custodes?
https://instagram.com/duke_mantee/" rel="nofollow - Duke-a-gram


Posted By: Flash
Date Posted: 12 May 2016 at 3:43am
Smile

pretty much every brand that made jeans/workwear were of a similar quality , its just that Levis is usually"the" brand we first think of when we think about vintage denim and there are lots of examples online  

Here is an example of a LEE 101b from the early 40's 

http://s660.photobucket.com/user/RYANDARRAGH/media/A1-buckle_zpsdudlhgza.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

http://s660.photobucket.com/user/RYANDARRAGH/media/A1-bu1_zpsn2uy8nta.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

link 
http://inspirationla.com/news/1280.html

another 1940's 101b from marvins 
http://www.marvins-jp.com/

http://s660.photobucket.com/user/RYANDARRAGH/media/dp1560-51_zpsglrszbh0.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">

http://s660.photobucket.com/user/RYANDARRAGH/media/dp1560-59_zpsjjsp90aa.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">




Posted By: slowdownarthur
Date Posted: 12 May 2016 at 3:19pm
Love the crazy stitching on those old Lees.
Reading through this thread I'm now hooked on the idea of getting a pair of the S406XXX MIURA-46.
The idea of recreating imperfections, or rather, allowing them to happen by immersing yourself in the technology and culture of the period, seems like the ultimate denim artistry to me.


Posted By: Double 0 Soul
Date Posted: 14 May 2016 at 10:51am






Posted By: Flash
Date Posted: 14 May 2016 at 11:59am
Nice one , been waiting for more pic's:)


Posted By: Flash
Date Posted: 20 May 2016 at 3:42am
just sent payment for the s409xxx ww2 (same as snakes pair) , cant wait to get them Smile


Posted By: oomslokop
Date Posted: 20 May 2016 at 9:54am
what is their email address?

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rakuten is entertainment


Posted By: Flash
Date Posted: 20 May 2016 at 9:59am
fngqm1849@ybb.ne.jp
could take some time to get a reply mate but maybe you will have more luck 


Posted By: Flash
Date Posted: 27 May 2016 at 4:06am
just took delivery of the Conners Sewing Factory S409xxx-M ww2 


the packaging is really cool and they come with a certificate of authenticity 


http://s660.photobucket.com/user/RYANDARRAGH/media/IMG_20160527_104233_zpsgauopwqr.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">


i love the back pocket stitching  , quite irregular and wonky 


http://s660.photobucket.com/user/RYANDARRAGH/media/20160527_110049_zps865quqyq.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">


these shrink from tag size , im usually a 29-30 in most jeans 


http://s660.photobucket.com/user/RYANDARRAGH/media/20160527_104326_zpsbm8c2l0p.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">


better pic of the denim , i would guess it is around 13-14OZ 


http://s660.photobucket.com/user/RYANDARRAGH/media/20160527_104340_zpsyiei7hef.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">


iron rivets and doughnut buttons feel really solid 


http://s660.photobucket.com/user/RYANDARRAGH/media/20160527_104548_zpsshkt2vg7.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">


signed and dated by Mr Yoshiaki Konaka 


http://s660.photobucket.com/user/RYANDARRAGH/media/20160527_104616_zps1cjiqxe8.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">


http://s660.photobucket.com/user/RYANDARRAGH/media/20160527_105928_zpsg4tcwyzg.jpg.html" rel="nofollow">


really pleased with these 



Posted By: Happy Hooligan
Date Posted: 27 May 2016 at 8:44am
I love all the flaws in those. 
Is there not a bar tack above the hidden rivet on the back pocket?


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