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Sugar Cane 1990,s M-Series

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Double 0 Soul View Drop Down
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    Posted: 31 Mar 2015 at 12:57pm
Double 0,s Sugar Cane M-Series Lexicon

SugarCane was established in 1975 as a brand belonging to Oriental Enterprises.
Oriental Enterprises (Toyo) was a wholesale textile manufacturer meaning SugarCane didn't have to buy in their fabrics therefor they could manufacture garments from high quality materials at a more reasonable cost. There was also a predecessor to Oriental/Toyo called Minato-Sho which (i think) disbanded in 1965.

The MP Codes
Ive read anecdotal evidence of folks purchasing these in 1990, so the MP codes probably originated around the late 80,s

MP-597
XX replica, early 90,s pre-dating the M41001, redline denim, what look like a 50,s cut.



MP-603
Early 90,s looking less boxy than the above, possibly a 46-51 repro.


MP-604
101Z released around 1990


Cane's Riders


MP-619
LEE 101 40,s replica


Union Made Canes


None of the MP models have a patch. Production of the MP codes ends before 1992.
I have seen an article in 'Made in Japan' magazine referring to the 1991 release of the M41001 but that was retrospective having been published in 1998, there must have been a few years crossover period.

Next up the early 90,s product codes
M41072
1922-1936 replica




M41028
1890,s 201


No back yoke?


M41030
Late 30,s 501XX using a 13oz white line denim
These came into production in the early 90,s and gained a cloth patch before being discontinued in 1997



M41001
Laurel leaf model, late 40,s early 50,s replica, pink-line denim

M41001
Pre-97 cloth patch model.

Detailed images found here M41001

M41027
40,s 101-B 14oz denim


M41057
WWII 101-B




M41051
1936 101 Cowboy Hair on Hide



M41101
Mid 30,s 101 Cowboy


M41058
11MW




M41059
1947 11MW


For comparison here's a deadstock pair belonging to Mr. Takahashi (Junky)


Tut Tut! Wrangler

A comparison of the pinkline denim types.


Other notable mentions

M40333
Bell Bottoms

M41117/M41099
Lot 117 + Lot 99 Ranch Pants, 10oz, buckle back, wide leg

M41102
Lot 102 Engineer Pants, 10oz buckle back, wide leg

M41104
Lot 104 Tool Pocket, 10oz wide leg

M41106
Lot 106 Union Made Logger Pants, 10oz wide leg



Edited by Double 0 Soul - 23 May 2017 at 1:51pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (4) Thanks(4)   Quote Double 0 Soul Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2017 at 2:22pm
91-97 M-Series Denim Jackets

M11026
Type 1 WWII 13oz denim




M11027
Type 2


M11028
Type 3


All the above lots started life circa early 90,s and gained a cloth patch before the end of production in 1997

M11317
213 blouse




M11002
101-J


M11141
11MJ


M11142
11MJZ Scovill zipper




Edited by Double 0 Soul - 23 May 2017 at 1:19pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote shredwin_206 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2017 at 2:36pm
Love the Wrangler repro!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (3) Thanks(3)   Quote Double 0 Soul Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2017 at 2:39pm
1998 M-series
After spending the early 90,s constructing the perfect replica SugarCane decided to distance itself from strict reproduction.

M41119 (1st)


14oz course weave moving away from pink or white and into green line denim. The arcs are gone but the red tab is still apparent.
Goat skin patch, coming into production in 1998 but due to the transition the early model button backs are still stamped with the S as per the 91-97 Lots.

M41200 (2nd)


Sugar Cane's own interpretation of a wide leg 30,s cut, using the 14oz green line denim.
A unique looking pair of jeans. No tab or arcs. The selvage is visible around the inside of the waistband, crotch rivet and hammered exposed back pocket rivets reinforced with leather discs. Starting to experiment with pocket bag materials. The button backs are now stamped 98 to indicate year of manufacture.

M41300 (3rd)


Tapered from hip to hem, 14oz green line denim. 98 button code.
Deerskin patch, front rivets now neatly embossed "Sugar Cane" while hidden rivets are stamped with the usual SC&CO TY.
For the first time we see lined back pockets and a lined coin pocket too. No tab or arcs.

M41400 (4th)


Paper patch, Mid 50,s cut, Talon Zipper Model using 14oz green line denim.
The red tab returns but no arcs. The patch is the same design as the Deerskin M41300 shown above albeit embossed in red on paper.


M41301
Brother model to the above using black 14oz white line denim but replacing the zipper with a button fly.

M11619
Sharing the same 14oz course weave green-line denim as the M41119


M11400
Same paper patch as the M41400 continuing to move away from reproduction...

Six years later Sugar Cane moved on from the M codes to the SC codes which we all know today, bold move to then resurrected both tabs and arcuates when throughout the late 90,s they sought to distanced themselves from their use.

2004 Sugar Cane Lot.1947




Edited by Double 0 Soul - 23 May 2017 at 1:21pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Maynard Fried-San Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 2017 at 3:01pm


Great stuff 00, we all really appreciate your efforts in bringing this brand history together.

Incidentally, I know that some of the Buzz Rickson jeans (also Toyo) use the M-series reference too, e.g. M43019.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Double 0 Soul Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 May 2017 at 1:12am
Thanks Maynard,
There are other 90,s era SC sub-brands using the M product codes too, RageBlue for example but im drawing the line at Sugarcane.

I didn't think a decade of SC denim would be this extensive when i started (a golden age) and trying to research/catalogue jeans from a pre-internet age with the help/hinderance of translate is certainly challenging.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Maynard Fried-San Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jun 2017 at 10:22am
Neal - do you have any info on/knowledge of those SC jeans with the Mt Fuji arcs that were released (I think) between 10-15 years ago?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (3) Thanks(3)   Quote Double 0 Soul Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jun 2017 at 1:14pm
Very little Martin, a rare beast. They're the Sugarcane Sumao or Sugarcane Mt. Fuji's. Your about right with the date, 15yrs or more.

I can't find a product code, i don't think its on the pocket label and from what ive read there might not even be one.
From what i can gather there were two different models at least one of which was made for the export market.
Most pairs that were hot soaked, the patch turns brown and drops off but it did depict a sumo wrestler.

As you can see here on this unworn pair, i suspect this pair was made for the domestic market??

They are 100% cotton (not sugar cane mix) this pair are pink-line denim probably around 14oz


Interesting pocket bags and notice the green tabĀ® is possitioned on the coin pocket^ rather than the back pocket.


Buttons are beautiful

Some examples of fading here, these images are rather poor but the info on these is extremely limited.




The second pair are green-line denim, these were a limited edition of 200 pairs made for export.
There is no Mt.Fuji stitch on the coin pocket and no tab whatsoever.
The Mt. Fuji back pocket stitch also differs from the example above.


That Sumo patch, notice there's no Lot number



Edited by Double 0 Soul - 13 Jun 2017 at 1:29am
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